Day 1. Ibbankatuwa protohistoric burial site:
This was one of my favorite sites and also what I am writing my paper on. There are most likely hundreds of these burial sites all around the area where this one was found, but very few have been excavated because people still live in and around the area. In fact, many of these people live on top of these burial sites and have used some of the megalithic burial stones to build their homes! In one front yard, the family was using one of the sites as a trash can. The burial itself does not take place underground. Four stones are placed in a swastika pattern to keep them from falling over. Inside the made rectangle are pots, usually containing bodily remains and possibly tools used at the time. Sometimes there are several pots at the site containing such things. In this way, the stones are used more as memorials than burial markers as we use today. Archeologists still do not know much about the people buried here. Nothing is written on the stones, although there have been a few swastika symbols found carved onto the top. They could have been settlers from a nearby settlement, travelers, or traders.
Vessagiriya: These are rock caves that were used as shelter before settlements were made. Today, they are still used by monks who choose to live a more secluded life outside of the monastery. The early cave dwellers carved drip ledges during the early iron period to stop water from coming into the cave. These date back to 3c BC. They also carved beds, posts, drains, stairs, art, and letters into the cave walls, floors, and ceilings. On the outsides of the cave you can see inscriptions in early Brahmin language, dedicating the different caves to the monks.
Royal Pleasure Gardens
(no really good photos) It once was the place where all the royalty hung out to bathe and be merry, but now it lies in ruins.
Day 2.
Citadel: On this day we got to go to a active archeological dig site. WOW. There were about 20 or so men and one woman working on the site, excavating a whole city hidden under the surface. The man who spoke to us was in charge of the archeological dig, and was also one of the most powerful archeologists in the country when it comes to funding for dig sites. He had two German archeologists at the site teaching his men (and woman) the techniques of German excavation and surveying the site. At the end of his speech there was nothing more I wanted to do but jump down in the hole and dig. I suppressed the urge, but boy it was hard. I told the man that it was tempting and he welcomed me to join him for my independent project. OMG! If only this fit into my WSP project. Working on an archeological dig site for a month?? This would fulfill a childhood dream that I never thought would come true.
Western Monasteries: This monastery was built in 6-9c AD, in the middle of the forest, for ascetic monks. The place comes complete with a large moat, tall walls to protect against animals, and the most elaborate urinal stone I have ever seen. That’s right – a urinal stone. Nothing else in the monastery was decorated or even painted, except the stone they urinated on! Apparently urination is seen as a form of purification and therefore it can be a place for meditation. We also found a puppy who got stuck in the moat while playing. We picked him up and brought him out so he wouldn’t starve. He was soo cute!
Urinal Stone
OOO – and creepy fact – The chronicles of Sri Lanka say that there was supposed to be a large cemetery near by the monastery, but nothing has been found. My lecturer said this might be due to the fact that the monks used to go to the burial sites and steal clothes off the bodies to wear. If the body was fully there, some monks would take it and use it to meditate over. I wonder if they asked the family for permission first or just took the body….
Sacred Bodhi Tree:
Great Stupa:
Day 3.
Sanchi Replica:
Mihintale Hospital: The hospital had many many rooms, all facing to the center where there was a Buddha statue. In one of the rooms there is a oil bath tub that was used to treat different illnesses. We all got in and took photos inside. It looks more like a casket than a tub to me. There were also inscriptions found at the site, telling of the different types of physicians, including leech doctors, podiatrists, and veterinarians.
The crypt/tub
Day 4.
Aukana Buddha:
Pidurangala: WOW What a climb! The humidity plus the steep hike made me one old person quickly. I had an asthma attack about 15 minutes into the hike and was the slowest person on the trail. Even Val and Roger Vetter (who are 40 +) were able to go faster than me. I felt like a failure. Roger stayed back with me to make sure I was ok, and neither of us made it up to the very top. Instead we stopped climbing once we reached the reclining Buddha and we hung out with him for a while. Still good scenery though….
YAY for hiking!
My Buddha buddy
Day 5.
Sigiriya:
What is it about Sri Lankans building their civilizations on TOP of humungous rocks!?! At 600 feet above the jungle, this was yet another steep climb. Luckily, there were more stairs and more people, which means less climbing and more stopping. One tip though – when going to one of the most beautiful sites in the cultural triangle with one of the most spectacular views in the country, do NOT get mad at your contacts and throw them out the window on the way there. You will NOT be able to see! Yeah…. Luckily I brought my camera, so I took all the photos I could and looked at them later, with my glasses. The only good thing about not being able to see when climbing a big ol’ rock is not being able to see how far you are off the ground, especially when you are deathly afraid of heights. It was wonderful to not be too scared, because if I can’t see it I don’t mind as much. Oh – and tip 2 – watch out for the wasps. There are thousands and if you make too much noise or flail around or use your flash on your camera, you will get stung many many many times and most likely end up in the hospital.
Sandamali and I, sweating, after the long hike up...
Day 6
We saw a lot of different guard stones, crematory stupas, regular stupas, and ruins. The best was this old ruin that is believed to have once been a library. Cicero, however, thinks otherwise and I agree with him. According to the Chronicles, the building was a couple of stories tall and it still has remnants of paintings on the wall. If this was a library, why would one paint all the walls, just to place shelves over them? Furthermore, the building is far too small for any sizable collection of books and is built upward with a vaulted ceiling rather than wide for more space for books and people. Cicero theorizes that it is a place where monks came to chant sutras, because if you stand in the center, the voices come together to form one single voice that can be heard all around the building.
Sandamli was just testing the durability...
This was a very relaxing day and when we got back to the hotel we went swimming in the largest tank in Sri Lanka, which is right outside our door. There were many people swimming in it as well as washing clothes and fishing. The water was clear and very clean, and the breeze even made waves so it felt like I was swimming in the ocean, minus the salt and freezing temperature. It was wonderful!
Day 7
Citadel in Polonnaruwa: Here we were able to see a great mixture of Hindu and Buddhism, to form Mahayana Buddhism later. Within the citadel there is the first Tamil inscription found in the area, a hindu shrine, mixed statues of hindu deities and Buddha, and various types of stupas. There is also beautiful art wherever you turn, although some of it is hard to see because of decay. We also saw the beautiful lotus pond, most likely used for Buddhist rituals by monks. There are several layers of lotus pedals that make up the pond and we found a Sandamali in the middle.
Alahana Pirivena: This monastic complex is known to be one of the largest of its time, but not much is left. Supposedly this building was several stories high, and is rumored to have rooms underground as well. Now all that is left is bits of the high walls and pillars marking the dozens of rooms. It is a bit of a maze to walk through, as the rooms twist and turn around the inside of the building. Surely a place to get lost within, in its prime.
Gal Vihare: Built in 12c AD, it is here that you can see three different types of stances of the Buddha, including sitting, standing, and reclining. These are massive statues and are still living relics for the Buddhist community. They are also wonderful slides for the monkeys.
Day 8
Leaving the beautiful hotel....
Dambulla Temple: When we arrived, the first thing we saw was a line of Buddhist monk statues walking on top of fake rock walls, and each one of the 30 or so monks were whiter than me. This was a very odd first impression.
I found out later that the lower part of the temple was added recently, along with a museum, bookshop, and IT center. The real temple is at the top of the hill. I couple of hundred steps later, we made it to the temple. From this temple, we could see Sigiria, which was over an hour’s driving distance away. Once again, they made us pay the tourist price even though we all have permanent visas. Sometimes they just really don’t like foreigners and there is nothing we can do. The sight was a beautiful temple built into the side of the rocks (real ones this time). Inside each room there were dozens of Buddha statues, some Hindu statues, and many murals depicting both Hindu and Buddhist folklore.
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